Smith Rock Climbing

14 May 2019 - Michelle Ho

And back to climbing! Smith Rock is spectular. Bright red-orange rocks, green grassy meadows, blue skies, a burbling creek… What more could you ask for?

Gorgeous.
Gorgeous.

It’s also one of the most convenient and climber-centric places I’ve climbed. Kudos to the local climbing associations and Oregon State Parks that help make this place awesome. The Bivy campground is super cheap at $8 per person per night. The site has hot showers, two dishwashing stations, communal picnic area that’s separate from the sleeping area, a recharging station (with USB outlets), and a little free library. All that within walking distance to the rock. Smith Rock also has two nice composting toilets strategically located at the bridge and the most popular crag area.

It rained a fair bit while we were there, but Smith Rock miraculously doesn’t really get wet. The volcanic rock somehow absorbs or sheds all the water and you can still get good friction. Just wait out the rain, and you’ll be able to get on the rock again. This is unlike Red Rock, where it’s sandstone and you have to wait two days after rain.

We did a mix of sport climbing and trad climbing at Smith. It was a great change to go from almost exclusively crack-climbing in Joshua Tree and Yosemite to sport climbing on huge bucket-sized huecos in Smith Rock. But we did find some cracks too.

The view from the top of Smith Rock.
The view from the top of Smith Rock.
The famous ''monkey face'' of Smith Rock. It's a free standing pillar that really does look like a monkey's face! It has one of the country's hardest sport climbs on it.
The famous ''monkey face'' of Smith Rock. It's a free standing pillar that really does look like a monkey's face! It has one of the country's hardest sport climbs on it.
See the monkey?
See the monkey?
Lots of eagles here!
Lots of eagles here!
We did an easy multipitch sport climb called Wherever I May Roam (great name and great climb!). The wind blowing super cold, making it feel a little more epic.
We did an easy multipitch sport climb called Wherever I May Roam (great name and great climb!). The wind blowing super cold, making it feel a little more epic.
We had some innovations in our camp cooking at Smith Rock. We made chicken salad sandwiches.
We had some innovations in our camp cooking at Smith Rock. We made chicken salad sandwiches.
And tom yum soup.
And tom yum soup.