Olympic National Park

20 May 2019 - Michelle Ho

We decided to end our 3 month long road-trip with a multiday coastal backpacking trip in Olympic National Park. A final hurrah.

This backpacking trip had a lot of firsts for me: first time using a tide chart, first time using a bear canister, and first time camping by the beach.

A three mile boardwalk takes us from Ozette Lake to Cape Alava and the coast.
A three mile boardwalk takes us from Ozette Lake to Cape Alava and the coast.
Awesome sandy wave pattern on the beach.
Awesome sandy wave pattern on the beach.
Our first campsite at Cape Alava!
Our first campsite at Cape Alava!
First night sunset. We ate dinner while watching the sky turn red. This was like 9 PM. The sun sets pretty late up here.
First night sunset. We ate dinner while watching the sky turn red. This was like 9 PM. The sun sets pretty late up here.
There's a fair bit of sea detritus along the hike. Lots of washed up ship parts, buoys, and ropes. We found someone made a ropeswing here.
There's a fair bit of sea detritus along the hike. Lots of washed up ship parts, buoys, and ropes. We found someone made a ropeswing here.
We burned driftwood for beach fires!
We burned driftwood for beach fires!
Our second morning was the brightest day we had.
Our second morning was the brightest day we had.
We got going relatively early in order to make our crossings before high tide. The ranger told us the timing of tides this week was perfect for hiking. The morning sunlight through the trees was magical.
We got going relatively early in order to make our crossings before high tide. The ranger told us the timing of tides this week was perfect for hiking. The morning sunlight through the trees was magical.
The Norwegian Memorial is tucked into the woods, memorializing those who died in a shipwreck here long ago. We thought about camping here for our third night, but pushed onwards since there was still plenty of daylight.
The Norwegian Memorial is tucked into the woods, memorializing those who died in a shipwreck here long ago. We thought about camping here for our third night, but pushed onwards since there was still plenty of daylight.
A lone tree atop a sea stack.
A lone tree atop a sea stack.
Pretty nice snack spot.
Pretty nice snack spot.
In the spots where it's impossible to pass even during low tide, there are steep overland crossings.
In the spots where it's impossible to pass even during low tide, there are steep overland crossings.
On our third night, we pitched our tent among the driftwood. We sort of stranded ourselves between two established campsites Starbuck Mine and Chilean Memorial. It was impossible to continue due to high tides and the dark. To backtrack would mean four additional miles of hiking in the dark and two overland passes. So we pitched right in the driftwood, as far back from the water against the cliff. We knew there wasn't a storm coming and the 3 AM high tide was not the monthly high. We woke up at 3 AM anyway, just to make extra sure high tide wouldn't wash us away. All clear!
On our third night, we pitched our tent among the driftwood. We sort of stranded ourselves between two established campsites Starbuck Mine and Chilean Memorial. It was impossible to continue due to high tides and the dark. To backtrack would mean four additional miles of hiking in the dark and two overland passes. So we pitched right in the driftwood, as far back from the water against the cliff. We knew there wasn't a storm coming and the 3 AM high tide was not the monthly high. We woke up at 3 AM anyway, just to make extra sure high tide wouldn't wash us away. All clear!
Most days were misty and foggy on the trail. But it was a miracle it never rained!
Most days were misty and foggy on the trail. But it was a miracle it never rained!
90% of this hike is rocks. Rocks and rocks and rocks. I mean, I love rocks (<a href='https://semi-rad.com/2013/11/big-shout-out-to-rocks/' target='_blank'>big shoutout to rocks!</a>), but I'm kind of over rocks after this trip.
90% of this hike is rocks. Rocks and rocks and rocks. I mean, I love rocks (big shoutout to rocks!), but I'm kind of over rocks after this trip.
One thing nobody told me was how many things I was going to kill while hiking here. You can't avoid it because you have to step in tide pools and rocks at low tide crossings. We stepped on barnacles, mussels, clams, crabs, snails, anenomes, and all sorts of sea creatures. I felt like a monster! I hope their hard shells kept them safe. I tried to step on rocks mostly.
One thing nobody told me was how many things I was going to kill while hiking here. You can't avoid it because you have to step in tide pools and rocks at low tide crossings. We stepped on barnacles, mussels, clams, crabs, snails, anenomes, and all sorts of sea creatures. I felt like a monster! I hope their hard shells kept them safe. I tried to step on rocks mostly.
All the little crabs would fall off their rocks as we approached. Or put their claws up in defense.
All the little crabs would fall off their rocks as we approached. Or put their claws up in defense.
I think these are snail trails. There were parts of the beach covered with these cool squiggles.
I think these are snail trails. There were parts of the beach covered with these cool squiggles.
Many sea stars! Or starfishes. Whatever you call them.
Many sea stars! Or starfishes. Whatever you call them.
I found starfishes clinging to steep rocks right at the edge of the water during low tide.
I found starfishes clinging to steep rocks right at the edge of the water during low tide.
They seemed to like small vertical crevices.
They seemed to like small vertical crevices.
Did you know that this section of the coast is home to the world's largest octopus species called the <a href='https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/invertebrates/g/giant-pacific-octopus/' target='_blank'>Giant Pacific Octopus</a>? We found this dead octopus washed up on the beach. Not sure if it's a Giant but it was pretty darn big.
Did you know that this section of the coast is home to the world's largest octopus species called the Giant Pacific Octopus? We found this dead octopus washed up on the beach. Not sure if it's a Giant but it was pretty darn big.
Cool arch inside a sea stack.
Cool arch inside a sea stack.
This place is called Hole-In-The-Wall! You can walk through the hole during low tide. Three years ago, I came here with some college friends. It's possible to day hike here from Rialto Beach.
This place is called Hole-In-The-Wall! You can walk through the hole during low tide. Three years ago, I came here with some college friends. It's possible to day hike here from Rialto Beach.
Despite being less than 3 miles from Rialto Beach and the end of our hike, we camped one last night right by Hole-In-The-Wall.
Despite being less than 3 miles from Rialto Beach and the end of our hike, we camped one last night right by Hole-In-The-Wall.
After being gray all day, the skies cleared dramatically for a stunning sunset.
After being gray all day, the skies cleared dramatically for a stunning sunset.
We had a final beach fire.
We had a final beach fire.
Done! But now... how to get back to our car that we left at Ozette Lake?
Done! But now... how to get back to our car that we left at Ozette Lake?
We took a gamble and decided to try hitch-hiking. Four different cars picked us up and we made it back to Ozette Lake and our car in under 3 hours. People are awesome! Saved us $120, had we gone with a shuttle company.
We took a gamble and decided to try hitch-hiking. Four different cars picked us up and we made it back to Ozette Lake and our car in under 3 hours. People are awesome! Saved us $120, had we gone with a shuttle company.
We immediately got seafood after getting back to civilization.
We immediately got seafood after getting back to civilization.